Exterior Painting
Siding, trim, fascia, doors and painted brick, scraped and spot-primed, then painted on a schedule built around Texas sun.
Deck & fence staining
I do fence staining in Rowlett, TX and nearby towns, plus deck staining: cleaning the wood, letting it dry, picking the right stain and keeping it off your plants and patio. One person, start to finish.
Stain soaks into wood rather than sitting on top of it, so the wood has to be ready to take it. Wood goes gray as sunlight breaks down its surface fibers, and stain put over that loose gray layer, dirt or mildew doesn’t bond well, goes on blotchy and wears off early. So the first step is always cleaning the wood down to sound fibers, including those green streaks on the shady pickets.
Then the wood has to dry. Stain needs somewhere to go, and wet wood is already full. After cleaning, I wait until the boards have dried out before any stain goes on. Brand-new pickets are often too wet to stain right away. Stain labels differ on how long to wait, so I go by the one on the can.
If you want both sides of a shared fence stained, talk to your neighbor first, since I’ll need to work from their yard.
Stain comes in three broad looks. Transparent (clear or toner) shows the most grain but carries the least pigment, so it protects least against sun and needs redoing soonest. Semi-transparent adds color while letting the grain show; it’s a common middle ground for cedar and pine. Solid stain looks closer to paint, hides grain and old blotches, and holds its color longest.
Decks are harder on stain than fences. The boards get walked on, hold water after a storm and take the sun flat-on, so solid stain on a deck floor tends to wear through in traffic paths and can peel. A common approach is semi-transparent on the boards and solid on the railings. Fences stand upright and shed water, so they usually go longer between coats.
One rule worth knowing: going darker is much easier than going lighter. Once a fence has solid stain on it, it generally stays solid. I’m happy to talk through colors. Bring me a color name from any brand, including one that ties in with your exterior paint, and that’s what goes on.
Sun is what wears stain out here. DFW Airport sees roughly 106 days a year that reach 90°F, by NOAA’s 1991–2020 normals, and Sherwin-Williams lists sunny exposure as a cause of early fading. On most fences, the long run that faces the afternoon sun goes pale well before the shaded side, and a deck floor takes it worst of all.
Timing matters as much as the product. Stain dries too fast in direct summer sun, which Sherwin-Williams ties to lap marks and poor adhesion, and the company also advises against staining in high humidity or the day after rain. So I wait for the morning dew to dry off the boards, work the shady side while the sunny side bakes, and stay inside the temperature range on the label. Spring and fall are the easy seasons, but May and October are also the wettest months at DFW, so a rainy week can push the start date.
HOAs commonly have rules about fence and deck colors. If you have one, get the approved stain color in writing before I start, and that’s the color I’ll use.
The process
I walk the fence or deck with you, check how weathered it is and what’s on it now, and give you a free estimate.
I clean off dirt, mildew and loose gray fibers, then wait for the wood to dry out before any stain goes on.
Plants, grass edges, brick and concrete get covered or masked. The stain goes on out of direct midday sun, within the label’s temperature range.
I pull up the coverings, clean up after myself, and look over every section with you before I call it done.
FAQ
It depends on sun exposure, the type of stain and whether it’s a walking surface. Transparent stains need redoing soonest and solid stains last longest, and decks usually need attention before fences do. A quick check: sprinkle some water on the wood. If it soaks in right away instead of beading up, it’s probably due for a fresh coat.
Mostly size and condition: how much fence or deck there is, one side or both, how weathered or mildewed the wood is, and what coating is on it now. Stain type, gates and railings, and how much landscaping needs covering also matter. A free estimate is the way to get a real number.
Often not. New lumber, especially pressure-treated, can hold too much moisture to absorb stain, so it may need time to dry first. Stain labels differ on how long to wait, and if water sprinkled on the boards soaks in rather than beading, they’re usually ready.
Usually mildew or algae growing where the wood stays damp: shaded sections, spots the sprinklers hit, and boards near the ground. It has to be cleaned off before staining, because stain won’t bond well over it and can trap it underneath.
Check your HOA’s rules before you settle on a color, because many associations want to approve exterior color changes, fences included. Ask whether they name a specific product as well as a color, so the approval covers exactly what goes on the wood.
I cover plants and grass edges along the fence line and mask nearby brick, siding and concrete before any stain goes on, then clean up when I’m done. It helps if you move patio furniture, grills and cars out of the way and turn the sprinklers off until the stain has dried.
Related services
Siding, trim, fascia, doors and painted brick, scraped and spot-primed, then painted on a schedule built around Texas sun.
Offices, storefronts, restaurants and unit turnovers, prepped and painted after hours or on weekends around your business.
Walls, ceilings, trim and doors, patched and caulked before painting, with edges cut in by hand and furniture covered.
Before another summer bakes your fence, give me a call at (972) 267-8208. I answer my own phone, reply within 24 hours, and staining estimates are free.