Interior Painting
Walls, ceilings, trim and doors, patched and caulked before painting, with edges cut in by hand and furniture covered.
Wallpaper removal
Wallpaper removal in Rowlett, TX takes patience: soften the paper, strip it with as little damage to the drywall as possible, wash off every bit of glue, then repair and seal the wall so it’s ready for paint. I do all of it myself.
Most wallpaper comes off in two layers: the printed face and a paper backing glued to the wall. I peel the face off dry wherever it’ll let go, then soak the backing with warm water and remover until the paste softens and it slides off under a wide scraper. When the face won’t peel, as with tightly stuck vinyl or paper somebody painted over, water can’t get through it, so I score it first — lightly. A scoring tool pressed too hard cuts straight into the drywall, and then you’re patching a wall full of little punctures.
Then comes the part that decides how your paint looks: the glue. Wallpaper paste often dries nearly clear, so a wall can look clean and still be coated. Paint over that film and it can crack, wrinkle or peel. I sponge the walls with warm water until they stop feeling slick, rinse them with clean water, and let them dry all the way before anything else touches them.
Even careful stripping sometimes tears the drywall’s face paper and exposes the brown paper underneath. Put joint compound or an ordinary water-based primer straight onto a torn spot and it soaks in and bubbles. So torn areas get sealed first with a primer made for damaged drywall paper, then patched, sanded and sealed again. Nail holes, dings and old anchor holes get filled while I’m at it.
Once the repairs are done, the whole wall gets primed, not just the patches. A wall that wore paper for years doesn’t take paint evenly, and patched spots tend to show through a finish coat as dull or shiny blotches. The right primer evens that out and locks down any paste residue I couldn’t see.
Then you pick the finish. Sometimes the wall under the paper was left smooth while the rest of the house got texture, so I can match the texture to the walls around it or skim-coat it smooth. With the room already prepped, it makes sense to roll straight into interior painting, and if you’re stuck on a color, try the color visualizer.
The age of the house matters. Census figures put Rowlett’s median build year at 1997 and Garland’s at 1978, and parts of East Dallas are older still — the 75214 ZIP’s median is 1967. Walls that have been around that long can carry several layers of paper, paper that’s been painted over, or paper hung directly on drywall that never got primer. That last one is the tough one: the paste bonds to the drywall’s own paper facing, and pulling the wallpaper wants to take the facing with it. That’s why I test a corner first and don’t rush.
Wallpaper also hides cracks. Paper can bridge thin cracks in corners and above doorways, the kind North Texas clay tends to cause as it shrinks and swells, so they often show up only once the paper is gone. Taping and patching them is part of the job, done the same way as my drywall repair work, so they don’t telegraph through the new paint.
The process
I pull a small test patch to see what kind of paper it is, how many layers there are and whether the wall under it was primed. That tells me how to take it down.
I cover the floors and furniture, lightly score any paper that won’t take water, soften the paste and strip the paper and its backing.
I wash off the adhesive residue, seal any torn drywall facing and patch the damage. Then I match your texture or skim the wall smooth.
The whole wall gets primer, then paint if you want it. After cleanup, we check the finished wall together in good light.
FAQ
You can, but I usually don’t recommend it. The water in the paint can loosen the paste, seams and edges tend to show through, and whoever removes it later has a much harder job. If the paper is stuck so tight that removing it would wreck the wall, I’ll tell you, and we can talk about sealing it and skim-coating over it instead.
Mostly what’s on the wall and what’s under it: vinyl or painted-over paper, how many layers there are, whether the drywall was primed before the paper went up, and how much repair the wall needs afterward. Tall walls, stairwells and skim-coating a wall smooth all add time. I’ll look at it in person and give you a free estimate.
Sometimes, a little, especially where the paper was hung on drywall that was never primed. That’s why I plan for repair from the start: torn facing gets sealed, gouges get patched, and the wall gets primed before any paint goes on.
It’s wet more than dusty. Stripping means warm water and softened paste, so the floors and furniture in that room stay covered, and there’s a little sanding dust once the patches go on. You don’t need to leave the house, and I clean up after myself.
Because a stripped wall isn’t one uniform surface. It’s a patchwork of bare drywall facing, joint compound and whatever paste residue is left, and each one soaks up paint differently. Primer seals all of it so the finish coat looks even and stays put.
Related services
Walls, ceilings, trim and doors, patched and caulked before painting, with edges cut in by hand and furniture covered.
Holes, cracks and nail pops, taped and patched, with texture matched and the wall repainted so the repair disappears.
Kitchen cabinets and bath vanities, degreased, sanded and primed, then painted or restained in thin, even finish coats.
If the wallpaper has to go, call or text (972) 267-8208. You’ll hear back within 24 hours, and there’s no charge or obligation for the estimate.